Over the last several seasons, there’s been something of a flamboyant, gender-bending esthetic in menswear. Think: Harry Styles’s oversized brooches and ruffled shirts, Billy Porter’s tuxedo-esque gown at the 2019 Oscars, Eddie Redmayne in a tulle frock at the 2024 Met Gala, Brad Pitt in a utility skirt at the Bullet Train screening in Berlin, Jared Leto in anything, anywhere. It’s not shocking — barely even surprising — any more.
So it seems about time for the menswear pendulum to swing back to a more conservative style — but this time, with sophistication and a cheeky bit of glam. The season is all about wearability, about proper suits, a nice cardigan, well-cut trousers and, yes, a tie. Here are five looks men will be reaching for this fall.
Fine Tailoring
As with women’s fashion, menswear is all about proper tailoring this season, which means jackets, trousers and outerwear designed to last. But that doesn’t necessarily mean classic cuts — there are plenty of oversized shoulders, nipped-in waists and deconstructed features, too. Check out the sleek, slimmed-down tailoring at Gucci and Prada, and the mid-century-inspired looks at Dior Men.
Cowboy Culture
The west, it seems, is best, at least when it comes to the must-have trend for men this fall. Who doesn’t love fringe, denim, single-point pockets, tooled boots and a cactus motif? They were all over the runways, especially at the exceptional Louis Vuitton show designed by Pharrell Williams.
Cool Coats
The coat is the essential piece this season, and there are so many great choices to invest in, from Valentino’s sky-blue full-length duffle to Balmain’s bright pink overcoat to the more classic colours and cuts at Givenchy or Gucci. Wear it with a pair of high, thick-soled boots.
(Faux) Fur
Feeling chilly? Not in these fur-ociously good looks. There are plenty of faux fur scarves, hats, trim and outerwear this season, but no one has gone on the prowl quite the way Giorgio Armani has. His Milan show featured leopard-print linings, jackets and a full-length zippered coat.
Accessories
Much has been said of the return of the tie this season (narrow, subtle, old-school-gentlemanly), but otherwise accessories have plenty of flair. Among them: XXL-sized handbags, notably the Louis Vuitton Speedy, Prada tote and Valentino moon bag. At Vuitton, along with cowboy hats, there are also complementary turquoise gems in buttons, earrings and top-stitching on jeans. Balmain, meanwhile, showed off head jewelry and gilded hats. And brooches have made a comeback, especially at Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana.
