BY JOANNE SASVARI
’Tis the season to pour yourself a wee dram.
Winter is whisky season, these cold, dark, damp days cry out for the rich, warm flavours and aromas of uisge beatha, “the water of life.” Luckily, as it happens, Victoria is a good place to enjoy a wee dram. Or two.
It’s home to one of the world’s best whisky bars (Clive’s Classic Lounge, named Whisky Hotel Bar of 2023 by the Icons of Whisky awards), as well as several prominent whisky societies and one of the best whisky festivals in the world, which also plays host to the annual Canadian Whisky Awards.
But what’s really exciting right now is the number of artisanal distilleries on Vancouver Island that are releasing whisky that has been slumbering in barrels for the past decade or so. From Shelter Point in Campbell River to Tofino Distillery on the west coast, Stillhead in Duncan and, here in Victoria, Macaloney’s Island Distillery and Spinnakers, our distillers are transforming grain into award-winning spirits ideal for sipping, mixing in cocktails or giving as gifts.
What’s really exciting right now is the number of artisanal distilleries on Vancouver Island that are releasing whisky that has been slumbering in barrels for the past decade or so.
It was only in 2013 that changes to the B.C. liquor laws made it easier for small, independent craft distilleries to operate here. Back then, there were only half a dozen or so artisanal distilleries in B.C. Today there are 82, according to the industry organization BC Distilled, and of those, 23 are on Vancouver Island or the Gulf Islands. Actually, make that 22 — the multi-award-winning DEVINE Distillery has announced it will be closing by the end of the year. (Its products will still be available for a while, though.)
Globally, Canada was long known for its smooth, easy-drinking “club” style whiskies; now it’s getting a reputation for deliciously adventurous sips. That’s because our rules are pretty loose compared to some places, and that allows for some exciting experimentation. (In Canada, to be called a whisky, a spirit must be made from cereal grains and mashed, distilled and aged in Canada. It should also be aged in small wood for no less than three years and contain no less than 40 per cent alcohol by volume.)
Here on the Island, three of the best-known and most award-winning distilleries are Shelter Point, Stillhead and Macaloney’s. They will be holding a joint presentation at the Victoria Whisky Festival (January 16 to 19), giving attendees a taste of what makes them unique. Meanwhile, other distilleries no doubt have a barrel or two tucked away, just waiting for the right moment to crack it open.
We can’t wait to raise a glass of the good stuff with them.
5 to Try
Shelter Point Classic Single Malt, 46% ABV
A classic expression made from 100-per-cent B.C. barley in small batches using traditional methods. Well-balanced notes of fresh and dried fruits, caramel, baking spices and honey, with just a hit of seaside salinity. Awarded double gold at San Francisco World Spirits Competition and Best Canadian Single Malt at the World Whiskies Awards.
Stillhead Distillery Sherry Cask Rye Whisky – PX Finish, 50% ABV
The spicy notes of this 100-per-cent rye whisky mingle with the honeyed sweetness of Pedro Ximinez sherry. Expect loads of dried fruit, vanilla and baking spices, as well as salted caramel, orange zest, fresh and dried fruits.
Macaloney’s Island Distillery An Aba, 46% ABV
This lightly peated and sherried signature single malt was crafted from Canadian barley and aged in a mix of bourbon, sherry and red-wine casks to create complex, layered flavours. Notes of citrus, fruit cake, vanilla, milk chocolate, marzipan, heathery florals and the smoke and salt of a seaside bonfire. A double gold winner at Whiskies of the World 2023.
Spinnakers Knot Single Malt Spirit, 43% ABV
As this spirit distilled from 100-per-cent B.C. barley has only been aged 18 months (on second-use American oak) it can’t legally be called whisky, but it still has notes of caramel, dried fruit and chocolate, with the promise of even better things to come.
Tofino Distillery West Coast Whiskey, 46% ABV
This blend of organic corn, rye and barley mash has been aged five years in new-charred French oak for aromas of baking spices and flavours of caramel, nutmeg and toasted oak. Awarded gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2024.
Best of the Fest
The Victoria Whisky Festival returns for its 19th year January 16 through 19 at the Hotel Grand Pacific. These four days of all things whisky include grand tastings, master classes, whisky dinners, consumer tastings and more, many events featuring presenters from all over the world.
The weekend begins with the Canadian Whisky Awards on Thursday evening, celebrating the people who are putting this country on the world whisky map.
Friday features eight grand tastings showcasing some of the world’s most renowned global brands, among other events.
Saturday is the big day of the fest, with a full lineup of 44 master classes during the day and, in the evening, the great, big consumer tasting.
Throughout the weekend, whisky enthusiasts can look forward to sampling more than 200 drams from 50 distilleries, including several new ones, across 11 countries.
Note that tickets sell out fast. Out-of-town attendees can purchase festival packages on November 15 when they book a hotel room at the Hotel Grand Pacific, 1-800-663-7550. In-town attendees must purchase tickets in person starting at 9 a.m. on November 17 at Strath Liquor Merchants.